Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup (Plus Giveaway!)
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Vietnamese Coffee, Trung Nguyen
Enjoying your slow-drip coffee is a quintessential part of life in Vietnam. Whether you’re stoopin’ it, shouting your order down the street to the local coffee cart on the corner, or enjoying a carefully prepared cup in an upscale coffee house, Vietnamese coffee is meant to be savored and enjoyed to the max.
One reason is the time it takes to brew a cup. Vietnamese coffee is not for the rushy-rushy. Single servings are brewed through a simple metal filter called a Phin, which takes a good 5-10 minutes to produce a cup. The filter is fitted over the top of a cup, or glass (if you’re making iced coffee), the grounds are placed inside the filter (about the same size grind as what you would use for a French press), a small weighted piece is placed on top, and then hot water is poured into the chamber.
Vietnamese coffee, Phin filter
Another reason to approach the experience with leisure is simply the heavenly flavor. Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though in my mind, is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. It wasn’t until I bought some roasted beans from a mom-and-pop coffee/tea shop that I learned why exactly the coffee tasted so buttery – you got it, it’s because the beans are actually roasted in clarified butter! Brilliant.
As if that doesn’t sound decadent enough, sweetened condensed milk is typically used in lieu of cream and sugar both for practical reasons (it doesn’t have to be refrigerated) and for taste (Have you had sweetened condensed milk lately? Think creamy, thick, dulce de leche goodness…in your coffee…everyday!). This is why Vietnamese coffee is a habit I could really get used to.
Vietnamese Iced Coffee (Ca Phe Sua Da)
In Saigon, with so much fantastic coffee everywhere we turned, it was tough to be too discriminating. So, I left it to the locals to show me the way. Vietnam is a country of food-lovers and total coffee addicts. My favorite conversation starter was asking a local: Where is the best food in town? People would bubble over with recommendations and loved talking about their favorite food, where to get it, and how to eat it. Everyone had an opinion.
One afternoon, over a Lazy Susan laden with dim sum, an impassioned discussion over the most delectable banh xeo, the silkiest tofu, the best hand-pulled noodles with half a crab on top, turned into a full-on debate over where to grab coffee afterward. One fellow named Nguyen insisted, “The best coffee is at my sister’s place,” and after a few nods of acquiescence from his accompanying friends, we were off to taste for ourselves if he was indeed correct.
We hopped on our motorbikes and went caravanning off through the maze of commuters. Put-putting over main highways, over to District 7 we went…on a mission for the perfect Ca Phe Sua Da (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk). It was spontaneous, exhilarating, and as the wind whipped through my hair, I couldn’t help but envision Anthony Bourdain’s crew on our tracks, kicking up some dust behind us.
Saigon Motorbike Ebb and Flow
What we came upon was a breezy little oasis of an internet cafe, tucked away amongst sprawling new developments and construction sites. The cafe itself is called Goc Peo, but the main signage outside speaks to the main reason for visiting – the rich and aromatic Trung Nguyen coffee served.
Coffee time at Trung Nguyen
Trung Nguyen seems to have made a nice business for itself, their chains and signs are all over Saigon, as well as the airport gift shop, and while the prices are expensive by Vietnamese standards, they are still relatively cheap by US standards (a cup of their famous “Legendee Coffee” was about $2 USD). Incidentally, Trung Nguyen has a pretty comprehensive website that explains all about what defines Vietnamese coffee and makes it unique, namely:
- The topography of the Annamite Range has allowed for a diverse variety of beans to flourish in Southeast Asia. By blending a variety of bean species (Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa and Catimor) rather than sticking to a single-source (like 100% Arabica), a broader flavor range is achieved.
- A lower-temperature, longer roasting process that is stable and consistent.
- Roasting the beans in clarified butter.
Another interesting fact I learned about Trung Nguyen’s coffee is that they produce what they call their Legendee Coffee, a “unique enzymatically-treated coffee that releases flavors bound in the beans and not released under ordinary processing.” The Legendee Coffee was what Nguyen brought us to taste. Read more about the Legend of Legendee and how modern science has attempted to reproduce the infamously expensive (and kinda gross) Kopi Luwak coffee, made with the help of the weasel-like civit.
My final verdict? The Legendee was worth experiencing, although a little intense for me to want to drink on a daily basis.
Vietnamese Iced Coffee, Trung Nguyen
Regardless, it was a joy to spend an afternoon in pursuit of the perfect cup with company who really loved their coffee. Company who loved it so much, they continued on their way, buzzing away to the next cup as we rookie tourists bid farewell.
Butter Roasted Coffee Beans
I did happen to bring home a few bags of these butter-roasted coffee beans from that mom-and-pop shop I mentioned, and they are just too good to keep to myself…so here is a chance to win a sample, along with an authentic Phin filter!
Simply leave a comment here telling me: Where do you go for your Perfect Cup? Extra points if it’s a spot where I can score some Vietnamese Coffee!
Comments must be submitted by Tuesday 11/24, 5 pm PST. Winner will be announced next week on Wednesday, November 25th.
Update: Congrats to Kristine, winner of Lick My Spoon’s Vietnamese Coffee Giveaway!
Goc Peo
So 16 Duong 8B, KDC Trung Son
Nguyen Van Cu noi dai – TP. Ho Chi Minh City
Vietnam
Welcome to Lick My Spoon, a place for all things delicious. 
It’s many years since I’ve been to Vietnam, but I can still remember their passion for coffee (and still have one of the Phin filters which I brought home as a souvenir). Unfortunately I don’t know of anywhere in Ireland that does Vietnamese style coffee, so I just pick lattes up from my local Coffee Angel stand, which does pretty well, all things considered!
other than the fantastic beans, I think a lot of the appeal is in the sweetened condensed milk too! I have a friend who adds it to her regular coffee instead of milk or cream and swears by it!
my favorite place to go for a cup of great vietnamese coffee when im back home in texas, is this tiny lil shop near my high school… you wouldn’t even know it’s there unless someone tells you. i LOVE their ca phe sua da!!! so delicious! would loveee to win some of these coffee beans to make my own
How timely this post is. I head to my parents and I got them some of those Vietnamese Phim filters – they’ve been raving about Vietnamese tea, and I thought the coffee was the logical next step. Now I can point them to your post to show them what it is.
we picked up some tea while we were there too! what kind of tea do your parents like?
My perfect cup is just a few steps away – in our kitchen! My husband and I have been exploring the world of coffee: he brought home beans from Brazil and Peru, and we’re currently enjoying Barako coffee from the Philippines (as far as I know, still not available here in the US). He also started roasting green Ethiopian beans on the stovetop after we watched the process at a local restaurant. But we have yet to try Vietnamese coffee! I’ve seen ground Trung Nguyen at the Asian market – I’d love to give it a try!
how cool! you roast your own beans on the stovetop! would love to hear more about that. what temp? how long?
Coffee in SF = Blue Bottle.
I’ve never had Vietnamese coffee, but after reading this, sign me up! I’ll be your buddy on a SF hunt to find the best if you want!
mmmm i heart blue bottle. esp their new orleans iced coffee. yeah…let’s do it! we’ll be buzzing all over the city.
I love Vietnamese coffee!! Though I didn’t know that it takes so long to make one cup! You are so generous for offering precious coffee beans from Vietnam and the Phin filter! I don’t know any local Vietnamese coffee places (I’m sure there are some in San Jose, but it’s too far for me…) but my favorite so far is Blue Bottle!
aww you make me blush
it’s my pleasure to share such wonderful tastes with you all! i actually wonder if the quality of the filter makes a difference in the amount of time it takes to brew a cup….it seemed like long time when i made it myself at home.
I have never had Vietnamese coffee, but after reading your post I would love to try it. I usually find the best cup of coffee in my own kitchen because I like it strong. I’m going to try the sweetened condensed milk tomorrow morning. (I also didn’t know that it does not have to be refrigerated. Thanks for the tip!) It really is very generous of you to share the coffee beans. The Phin filter sounds perfect for helping me to limit myself to one cup of coffee a day!
I have never had Vietnamese coffee either!! …now I will be on a quest to find it. Anybody know of any in South O.C., So. Calif??
For now, my best coffee is right here at home!
One of the first presents my boyfriend ever gave me was a Vietnamese coffee filter (phin), a can of condensed milk, some Cafe du Monde, and my very own coffee mug that could live at his place! Not only that he learned how to brew the perfect cup with the exact amount of condensed milk and water that I like. There’s nothing like waking up to a wonderful ca phe sua nong (hot coffee with condensed milk)!!! I’m sure if you ever came over for dinner and asked nicely he would brew you a cup too!
oh, a boy after my own heart! that is the sweetest present ever <3
I loved this post! Vietnamese coffee is one of my favorite drinks. Being Vietnamese myself, I would always make sure to order an iced coffee with pho, in order to counter act the msg food coma. My favorite pho place ‘Pho 75′ is where I enjoy getting my coffee. It’s about 10 minutes away from my house and one of the most popular pho places in the DC area.
thanks, chica! haha that is totally my strategy too!
I must say, I hae never had Vietnamese coffee before, but you can be sure that now I am on a quest to taste it! For now, the best coffee I’ve had is in Seattle.
I love Vietnamese coffee! We went there last year (Hanoi and Ha Long) and had some interesting coffees, one of which was the Weasel Coffee…this does involve a weasel who eats the coffee beans, excretes them then the farmers/locals/coffee pickers wash and process the beans to be made into a fantastic brew. I think there aren’t enough of these weird and wonderful delicacies. I feel an international bestselling cookbook coming on!
Good work on the blog I’ve just found it and am really enjoying reading my way through
Thanks, Pip! we never made it to northern viet, but hanoi and ha long are def on the top of our list next time! yeah, the whole weasel coffee thing is crazy, huh?!
My favorite cup of coffee can be picked up at a Vietnamese Coffee Shop in San Jose called Coffee Lovers. A shoddy, two story establishment, this coffee shop is a little known gem. Two stories tall, it is smitten with smokers, card players and students at all hours of the day. Besides being in east side San Jose forever, it’s also the very first coffee shop in the area to have a drive-thru (circa 1997!). I always get the same cup every time: an iced borga. It’s the classic coffee and condensed combination with a tip-of-your tongue orange flavor. Candied orange peels top it off. Every time I come here I forget how good it is and curse myself for not coming more often.
wow that sounds amazing! can’t wait to try making this at home! candied orange peel…brilliant.
What a great giveaway!
I also go to ‘Urban Grounds’ here in Dallas to get a warm cup of coffee. I try to support the local coffee shops as much as I can!
The best Vietnamese coffee I ever had was in Vietnam. I taught English in Go Vap for approximately 6 months and before I went to work every single day, I had a cup of iced coffee. I lived with my aunt while I was there and every morning, I would walk down the stairs and there would be a cup of coffee waiting for me. My aunt was a perfectionist when making coffee. She didn’t just let the coffee drip nor did she just stir the contents of the cup. She had a bit of a magic touch to it. Other members of the family tried making the coffee for me, but they could never get it right. Now that I’m back in the states, I make my own Vietnamese coffee before I head to work. Again, it’s just not the same as my aunt’s special Vietnamese iced coffee…
so interesting! you need to find out what her secret technique is
Must say that my favorite coffee has to be from my dad’s little coffee house in Alameda, CA– Java Rama (shameless plug)… Seriously, a place that stands its own against the Peets and Starbucks (boo) down the street. We definitely need to make a coffee house field trip this fall and try the yummy concoctions the baristas are brewing!
hahah (boooo). totally down! let’s go!
What an interesting post this was. Ah, I have so many places to visit … so little time (and money). Well, it’s not Vietnamese coffee I’m afraid, but for great coffee I go to New Orleans for a cup of cafe au lait. Of course, this is a 3.5 hour plane ride away … worth it for so many reasons.
mmm…cafe au lait and a hot beignet!
There’s an awesome place in Louisville, Highland Coffee which has great coffee! The swiss mocha there is to die for! They don’t have Vietnamese Coffee on the menu, but I’m sure they could whip it up!
So jealous that you got to trek around Vietnam for coffee! I love a good cup of Vietnamese coffee – and I drink it far too infrequently. There’s a wonderful little pho place (forget the name, but I know just where it is in Richardson Texas) that makes great pho and coffee…yum!
I’ve never had Vietnamese coffee but we are spoiled with some good stuff in South Louisiana. Community Coffee is excellent and has a lot of local coffee shops. Strand’s Cafe in downtown Baton Rouge is also one of my favorites as well as Perk’s on Perkins Road.
I’ve been making Vietnamese coffee for years. I used to go to Monterrey Park In Los Angeles for it, but now make it at home in Sonoma. It makes great ice cream too.
mmm viet coffee ice cream sounds amazing!
The best Vietnamese coffee I’ve had is from a little place in San Gabriel called Vietnam Restaurant. One sip, and I was addicted! There are times it even tastes like coffee ice-cream
oh agreed, it is definitely dessert for me sometimes!
I loves me some coffee! My perfect coffee is actually my own LOL! We buy green beans and roast them ourselves in a popcorn popper. So fresh and delicious!
in a popcorn popper! now that is kitchen gadget multi-usage.
this is a very good way of having nice smooth strong coffee. I love it
[...] jar of real deal butter-roasted Vietnamese coffee beans and authentic Phin filter has your name on [...]
that is truly a great cup of authentic iced coffee
Wow, this is exactly as I remembered the coffee. I loved it so much that when I came back home I started drinking Trung Nguyen religiously (although I know it’s the condensed milk that makes the coffee!).
With All The Vietnamese Coffee Talk, I Just Would Like To Say I Offer True Vietnamese Coffees, I Roast In Small Batches, My Mother Ship Coffees Are Ethiopian, I’m A Custom Roaster, N Can Blend To Taylor The Individual Palate. For Now I Would Like To Maybe Donate A Couple Bags Of My Vietnamese Coffee For A Giveaway, If Interested In My Offer Contact Me Through My Website. Thanks |_|B
[...] but my favorite reason to walk into Lee’s is the expansive beverage selection. There is Vietnamese Iced Coffee (café sua dá) of course, dripped strong, mixed with sweetened condensed milk, and poured over [...]
LOVE Vietnamese Iced Coffee. Kind of spoiled out here in San Gabriel Valley where it is very accessible (I say this as I’m drinking one right now). Nice pics too! If you’re in for a really quick fix, we’ve found Trader Joe’s instant coffee (both regular and decaf) with condensed milk to have a very very close taste to our beloved Cafe Sua Dua. Just throwing that out there. Thanks!
Thanks for the tips, Ben! Will have to check out that TJ reco
[...] Whilst DIY Vietnamese coffee is cheaper than a barrista-brewed coffee, it is also pricier than many of its DIY counterparts. Unlike instant and sachet coffee though, Vietnamese coffee doesn’t sacrifice on flavour: Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though in my mind, is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor…[Also] sweetened condensed milk is typically used in lieu of cream and sugar both for practical reasons (it doesn’t have to be refrigerated) and for taste (Have you had sweetened condensed milk lately? Think creamy, thick, dulce de leche goodness…in your coffee…everyday!). This is why Vietnamese coffee is a habit I could really get used to. (via Lick My Spoon‘s ‘Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup (Plus Giveaway!)’) [...]